David Waltuck has never held a job that did not involve cooking. He just loves “experimenting with food.” When he opened his first restaurant, Chanterelle, in 1979, it was “less of a thing; less expensive, less complicated.” Closing after thirty years in 2009, the restaurant was reincarnated in 2014 when Chef David Waltuck and former General Manager George Stinson opened Élan - a place void of gimmicks, unafraid to let good flavor and service stand alone.
A word that has fallen out of the English language, élan translates to “energy,” “enthusiasm,” and “style.” And for George and Chef David, it also means “discovery.” When making restaurant-related decisions, George and Chef David constantly wonder, “Does this mean élan?” They want each element they select to fully represent playful mirth, right down to the young, enthusiastic servers they employ. “Or we could just be two old guys trying to be young,” George joked.
The interior of Élan gives off an elegant simplicity, never detracting from the dining experience. Its back room seating and bar area are accented by mirrors, glassware, and modern light fixtures that hang from the ceiling - welcoming, but not demanding, attention. Windowed doors out front span the restaurant’s width and sprawl open in fair weather, blending the inside and the out. And the palette of the space is neutral, save a bi-annually changing grand mural. Showcased when I visited in June of 2015 was a piece by Margaret Lee that had been destroyed, and now recreated with digital images to give it another life.
When we entered the kitchen, I saw cheesy burgers waiting to be sandwiched, fries waiting to be fried, and plates waiting to be plated, all giving off a pervasive potential-fueled energy. The kitchen staff was unfazed by the presence of a few extra bodies, embracing the change to kitchen dynamics as they rhythmically prepped dishes. And while the Chef maintained a childlike fascination with his practice, his fluid motions implied experience - searing, seasoning, sizzling, slicing, and tasting. To watch Chef David Waltuck and his staff at work in their culinary studio is to look into the heart and soul of Élan.
Discovery permeates the Chef’s menu, an eclectic, innovative mix possible only for a chef surpassing mastery and unafraid of taking risks. The dishes are inspired by French technique, similar to Chanterelle, with influences from Chinese cuisine, an interesting twist. George admitted the menu had turned him on to Sweetbreads. With vibrant colors, innovative flavor, and effortlessly beautiful plating, the dishes served at Élan strive to give off whimsical levity not usually seen in fine dining.
The first course Chef David prepared for us, a pickle plate, was playful. This dish constantly changes, and the cooks joked, “If anything stands still too long in the kitchen, it gets pickled.” Next came the spring greens ravioli, with a mix of fresh ingredients like red tomato butter sauce and fava beans, providing a full spectrum of red, green, and yellow hues. A favorite for some was the crispy seared Chatham cod with a perfect snap to the bite, set against a rosy, Spanish-inspired romesco-like sauce. For the rabbit chops, the chef had rested down a beautiful bundle of fresh fettuccine to go opposite the light jus, balancing the two by placing the chops along their contour, forming an abstract sun of sorts. The meal was finished off by a banana and rhubarb sundae prepared by the pastry chef, Diana Valenzuela, with a raspberry fool, citrus sorbet, amaro ice cream, and banana cake - a dessert that just kept giving. The meal covered traits of Élan and its chef's talents in every aspect.
From first greeting to last bite, my experience at Élan was flooded with a variety of art. A masterpiece of constant creation, Élan is a side street spot not to be overlooked. Guests can fall in love with combinations of ingredients that they had never considered before, learn about artists they have never heard of, and meet warm and dedicated servers.
Side note: On the first Sunday of every month, Élan offers a three-course, family style meal cooked out of Chef David’s first cookbook, “Staff Meals.” Reservations are taken in advance.