Matcha Café Wabi is where tradition and experimentation meet. The word “wabi” in Japan refers to a subtle state of calm and restfulness that brings with it a sense of humility and a lack of showiness. The word perfectly describes the peaceful atmosphere inside the café.
I had the pleasure of meeting the owner, Ken Mitsue. His English, however, was limited, so I conducted my conversation with Oshin, one of the lovely women behind the counter. She told me the story of the café, which began when Ken decided to do something with the space adjacent to his hair salon with his friend Hideaki Minamida. He wanted to give something to the community that it really needed. As a big fan of coffee and tea, he thought that a café would be the best way to help the neighborhood. He started producing coffee and tea with "Japanese character." Matcha, the traditional tea of Japan, is the star of the show, but Wabi has learned to adjust its Japanese recipes to contemporary American styles and the fast pace of New York. For example, their signature matcha paste has been turned into a base for lattes. Quickly realizing that they would need to serve food to their customers - including those on a vegan or gluten-free diet - the team began to experiment with bean paste, steam buns, sesame rice balls and other products. The results that I sampled were perfection.
Oshin pointed out that even though the café has adjusted to American sensibilities, some crucial parts of Japanese culture still remain. For example, in their tiny space, they place a large emphasis on presentation, making sure that each drink and food item is displayed in a complete, beautiful way. They also put a lot of stress on seasonality. When I visited, Oshin explained they were preparing for spring, and so the Sakura latte (made with cherry blossoms) had just been added to the menu. She also mentioned that their outside providers are often Japanese: the roaster 95RPM, based in Brooklyn, is Japanese-run.
For those who wish for a calming, prolonged experience, Wabi stocks the traditional sea green matcha bowls and bamboo whisks. On the other hand, most of their food is available to grab on-the-go. With options for all tastes and speeds, anyone can attain the state of “wabi” in the calm, green interior of the café.