Having had marvelous dinners in this unique east side restaurant a considerable number of times, I was eager to have members of the Manhattan Sideways team experience both the decor and the food. As we walked into Le Colonial, they turned to me and said that they felt like they had stepped into a time portal and been transported to colonial Vietnam. The off-white walls, the potted palms, the shuttered windows, and the fans spinning lazily overhead all evoked a bygone era. The waiters greeted us in both French and English and led us to a small wicker table next to the artfully tarnished wall mirror. The lunch was absolutely superb; French-Vietnamese dishes prepared by executive chef Ron Wing Wee Hsu, who previously worked at Michelin-starred Le Bernardin, included tender baby back ribs, the spicy Shrimp Galanga, and the Banh Cuon (steamed pork ravioli topped with a cucumber and basil salad) and a variety of vegetable side dishes.
After the meal, we wandered upstairs to the cozy bar, which is furnished with plush red chairs and beautiful lamps. On the suggestion of Benjamin, the bartender, we sampled the Passion fruit Mojito – a refreshing combination of Avuá Cachaca, passion fruit puree and lime juice – and the Canton Royal, prepared with Domaine de Canton, champagne, green Chartreuse, and cranberry juice.