A photographer of the Manhattan Sideways team and I dined here one cool summer night, enticed by the prospect of an authentic Mediterranean meal. Seating ourselves at a table partially sheltered by a tent structure, and partially outside, we got a full view of all the true beauties the restaurant has to offer. The in and the out were somehow intertwined. Outside, we looked up at the starry sky, and at some luscious flowers and young kids’ paintings on the surrounding walls. Inside we looked up at the star ornaments hanging from the beautifully crafted tapestry, and at lines of Arabic poetry. While the tent provided a dynamic vibe, much like the evolving city around us, the brick-walled enclave suggested permanence and foundation, embodying the history that our server, Sarim, revealed.
In 1988, the owner, Sarim’s father, began the business, selling a single signature dish from a street cart in Brooklyn. In 1992, he opened his first New York restaurant on the West side. Moustache’s current location, on the East side of Manhattan, was first opened in 1997. Sarim has seen the surrounding neighborhood change from cultural spots to gyms and banks, making this family business increasingly unique in the area. Along with the constant and returning diners, Moustache has hosted weddings, political discussions, and other festivities.
As the place is known for its oven-baked pitza, we had to try a pie alongside the falafel salad with warmed pita bread. As we waited for our meal and the natural light continued to fade, Sarim came over with a single lit candle - the perfect centerpiece. The food truly embodied all the Mediterranean flavors we had been craving, perfectly heated and beautifully plated. While we ate, Arabic music from the 1960s played gently in the background, transporting us to the home country of Salim and his family’s business.
Specializing in traditional dishes typically eaten in Iraq, and offering an authentic atmosphere, Moustache is not just about eating a meal, but engaging in a cultural experience. Sarim invites all to “try it out.”