After spending ten years working in the city as a sous chef, Scott Levine decided it was time to found an establishment of his own. His original thought was to open a bagel shop on the Lower East Side. While speaking with him one afternoon as the cars continued to line up for his father-in-law's historic Westside Highway Car Wash, I learned that, taking a chef’s approach to the iconic New York bread, Scott spent a large part of 2013 developing recipes for the bagel venture - even going so far as to experiment with homemade yogurts for parfaits that would accompany the main attraction. However, his lease in the intended neighborhood fell through, and as is all too common in Manhattan, elevated rent in surrounding areas forced Scott to alter his plans.
For years, his father-in-law had been wanting to collaborate with him, and with a bit of unused space in the hall across from the vehicle wash tunnel, this seemed like the perfect opportunity. In mid-November of 2014, Scott opened Underwest Donuts in the renovated space within the carwash. Scott explained that he was drawn to the area as it is a short walk from The Intrepid Sea, Air & Space Museum in the ever-developing region of Hell’s Kitchen. Along with the new location came an original menu to match the smaller venue. Levine decided upon donuts and coffee, as it seemed a natural fit for his diverse clientele as well as something that customers would be happy consuming at any time of day.
Beginning at 6:30am when the carwash opens for full service, patrons must walk through Underwest Donuts in order to get to their cleaned cabs, sedans, and SUVs on the other side - and who can resist the scent of a warm donut fresh from the fryer? To prepare for the morning rush, Scott said that he usually arrives at the shop around 2:30am to start preparing his artisanal cake donuts with the help of the “Donut Robot,” a specialized machine for cooking up the ringed treats. According to him, the equation for a well-crafted sweet is “hands plus robot equals donut.”
The delectable treats at Underwest come “old fashioned” and in an assortment of fun flavors. Scott wanted to use ingredients that were familiar with a unique twist and chef’s finesse, resulting in donut varieties like brown butter, halva, coconut-lime, espresso bean, and dark chocolate - which he said "contains as much chocolate as possible." For 2015, Scott's goal is to release an innovative flavor every month. For February, the newcomer to the batch is the Maple Waffle donut, which after tasting, I can attest - in the best way possible - is like nothing I have had before. In addition to the donuts, there is a full menu of espresso drinks and fair trade coffee from Brooklyn Roasting Company, the perfect complement to an Underwest donut.
When I asked Scott how he feels about what he has accomplished, he replied that, in the mornings before the shop opens, he looks up at the wracks full of donuts and feels proud of what he has created with his own hands.