Discover Cheese

Although homemade pasta was not sold at Russo’s until Jack Cangemi took over from its original owner, Anthony Russo, the shop has always been dedicated to making homemade fresh and smoked mozzarella. In the old days, Russo’s used to smoke its cheese in a metal barrel on the sidewalk — “stinking up the street” in the process, as the staff at its equally long-standing neighbor, Veniero’s, still playfully gripe about today.

After a long day of walking, the small sign advertising cheese and wine caught my eye. Upon entering the restaurant, I was greeted by Brian Keyser, Casellula's owner. Intrigued by the name, I asked Brian what it meant. "It's Latin slang for a small hut and it also has the same root as the Latin word for cheese," he explained. This could not be more apt, as Brian and his staff take cheese very seriously in their intimate restaurant. There are over forty varieties offered from around the world. While cheese certainly takes center stage – evidenced by the prominent glass cheese case – the restaurant's sommelier will gladly suggest the perfect wine to accompany a cheese platter or vice versa.Brian has transformed the building, which was previously used as a storage facility for street food carts, into an aesthetically pleasing combination of exposed brick, distressed wood and large windows. Asked about what running a business on 52nd Street is like, Brian answered excitedly, "I deliberately chose to be on a side street...I wanted this to be a kind of escape from the city, away from the hustle and bustle of the avenue." Casellula is, indeed, a perfect retreat.