Having spent six months living in Barcelona, upon leaving El Quinto Pino, our Manhattan Sideways staffer Molly felt almost startled not to be stepping out onto the cobblestone streets of el Barrio Gotic. Aside from the friendly English-speaking waitress and bartender, Molly thought that El Quinto Pino could easily have been transported right from Spain. The tradition of tapas began with a safety law in Spain, which required that for each drink served at a bar, a small plate of food must also be offered. This feels appropriate at El Quinto Pino, as it does seem to be primarily a bar, although we easily filled up on tapas dishes. We found the customers clustered intimately around the bar and stool seating that rings the small room - just as they do in Spain. From behind the bar, the waitress darts in and out of the kitchen bringing steaming plates of classic tapas - patatas bravas, crispy potato wedges with a spicy sauce, and pan amb tomaca, toasted bread rubbed with garlic, tomato, olive oil, and salt - the equivalent of a peanut butter and jelly sandwich in Spain. The kitchen also serves more adventurous and modern takes on Spanish cuisine, and has an extensive menu of Spanish wines and creative cocktails. There is a cycling “Menu Turístico,” which offers dishes from a new region of Spain each month. The featured dishes, when we came in, were from Catalunya, a treat for Molly, as she had spent a considerable amount of time there. The bar was originally opened by Eder Montero, a Basque chef from Bilbao, and his wife, Alex Raij, an Argentinian-American chef. It was intended as a "sort of waiting area" for guests at Tía Pol, another Spanish restaurant in the area where the couple was working. Eventually, they made the decision to expand the menu at El Quinto Pino, and open another restaurant, Txikito, just a block away on Ninth Avenue - this one devoted entirely to Basque cuisine. More expansions are to come for El Quinto Pino, as Alex and Eder have just purchased the apartment next door and are planning to have tables and finally be able to take reservations. This is a good thing, as El Quinto Pino's reputation continues to grow in the Spanish community, as well as becoming a favorite for the rest of us.
We visited the modern, yet cozy atmosphere of El Quinto again recently for my birthday and had, yet another, delicious experience. The now finished space next door is still intimate, but offers more tables as the restaurant continues to fill up on Saturday evenings. The unique, and somewhat kitschy (in the best sense) decor showcases carefully selected mismatched chairs, a gorgeous hanging light in the shape of a broadly-rimmed hat, a massive tapestry adorning the far wall crafted by a talented young artist of the Young Designers Collective, and a glowing origami snowman - fitting for the snowy New York night.
My family was with me and we kept ordering dish after dish (drink after drink) and enjoyed every minute of our extended meal. From the savory cocktails to the neustras bravas (the classic Spanish fried potato with spicy aioli dish that we all agreed was our favorite) to the fried shishito peppers to the Bocatos (our little sandwich was filled with fresh mozzarella and huitlacoche – think Mexican truffle) to the lamb skewers and, lastly, to the completely over-the-top dessert – a decadent olive oil and chocolate frozen log that we literally sliced like butter and spread on thin toasts…the beverage, the food and the overall dining experience was a delight and made for the perfect birthday celebration with my husband, children, and granddaughter.