Chez Napoleon
Lunch M-F 12pm-2pm, Dinner M-Sa 5pm-9:30pm
Dimly lit and windowless, the interior of Chez Napoleon is a world far removed from the streets of Manhattan. The warm French accent of owner Elyane Bruno lends a special touch, as does that of those who work alongside her. The decor is a mix of black and white old world portraits, a jigsaw puzzle of Napoleon at Waterloo and a sign that reads: “Save Water, Drink Wine.” Opened in 1960, Chez Napoleon does not simply pay homage to French culture – it is French culture. The manager at the time, Ruhm, also a childhood friend of Elyane’s son William, shared stories with me that dated back to 1982 when the Bruno family took over the restaurant. He explained that it was named after its first owner, known as Napoleon because of his short stature and even shorter temper. Despite drastic changes in the Hell’s Kitchen neighborhood, Chez Napoleon has remained anchored. “The menu has stayed more or less the same,” Ruhm said, “Real French food that you don’t often find in New York anymore.” Some of his favorite highlights include the white bean stew with pork and lamb, bouillabaisse (a traditional Provencal fish stew) and, rabbit and beef bourguignon.