Having already had a pleasant evening at Prime Hospitality's restaurant inside the Bentley Hotel on 62nd Street, I was looking forward to experiencing the brand new Prime West. The restaurant group, which was founded by Joey Allaham in 2000, started with Prime Grill on Madison Avenue and has since grown to include five eateries. Prime West began its life as Prime KO in 2010, a kosher Japanese Steakhouse led by Chef Makoto Kameyana. Towards the end of 2015, it was reborn as Prime West and became part of Prime Hospitality's rotating chef program. Well-known chefs come through their kitchen and spend a limited engagement putting their mark on the menu and introducing the customers to their specialties. When I visited in the spring of 2016, Chef Edward Boarland was at the helm.
Edward is probably best known for his work at Rafael, the renowned kosher restaurant in Paris, but he has cooked in a number of other European kitchens. After working at Gordon Ramsay's restaurant in London, he transferred to the Gordon Ramsay au Trianon in Versailles. It was here that Edward joined Rafael and began his first foray into kosher cuisine. As someone who is not kosher, he found the shift to be a "massive challenge." Rafael was a meat restaurant, so Edward had to learn how to cook without butter, cream, or milk. "Many people would have given up," he admitted. He enjoys working in kosher cuisine, however, because he recognizes that it is one of the few areas of the culinary world that is under-saturated. This is especially true in New York, where locals frequently dine out. Edward learned about the Prime Hospitality Group through some of his customers in Paris who made frequent trips to Manhattan. When Rafael closed, he signed on with Prime.
In the words of Danielle Zaria Praport, who handles the Public Relations for the restaurant (as well as Breads Bakery), "Prime has brought kosher cuisine to another level." Not only is it a place where those who keep kosher can bring families for an upscale meal, but it is also a place where businesses can take clients who keep kosher: they can experience a complete meal of high quality kosher food and an atmosphere where kosher observers "can be celebrated." Edward is excited to be able to provide a valuable service to the largest Jewish community outside of Israel. He is also pleased to be able to expand the scope of offerings for his Prime customers. Prime KO served sushi, and now Prime West offers French haute cuisine. The menu at Prime West, Edward explained, is for "anyone who heard about Rafael and didn't have time to get over there and try the food." He even has a tasting menu, which "doesn't really exist in kosher cuisine," and allows diners to be "excited throughout their meal."
Edward showed me the bustling kitchen where cooks were busily preparing plates for the dining room. There was eggplant caviar that Edward made using a pureed version of the cooked eggplant salad that is often eaten on Shabbat. He proudly told me that guests from Paris are still calling him to ask for the recipe. He then brought out a selection of dishes from his tasting menu for the Manhattan Sideways team to sample and photograph. First was a scotch egg made with fish, served with radicchio salad and a green pepper puree. There was also a sea bass ceviche with pineapple and shizo as well as a crispy cornetto filled with tuna tartar and guacamole. The ceviche was served with raw turnips, a unique touch that added a pleasant spicy aspect to the taste. For dessert, Edward brought out a hazelnut rocher, served with pistachio ice cream. The large chocolate bauble was like a giant Ferrero Rocher, but with a delightful crispy biscuit base and creamy interior.
While constructing his menu, Edward tries to listen to his customer's needs as much as possible. He speaks to as many guests as possible. "It's a great feeling to be able to influence a community," he admitted. He then went on to say that he feels strongly that quality and variety does not have to be limited for those who eat kosher. He is delighted to have created a menu that pushes the envelope of what guests expect. "People are always surprised it's kosher – we're bringing a new experience to the kosher community."