We felt at home the second we stepped into the warm, cozy Uncle Vanya Café in the fall of 2016. Long-time Uncle Vanya team member Igor Reznik welcomed everyone with sweet kompot, house-baked bread with garlic oil, and bowls of steaming borsht. The delectable feast of traditional Russian dishes later continued with pelmeni, blini, and Salmon Kulibiaka (salmon, mushrooms and onions in a puff pastry). College interns with Manhattan Sideways, Lucy and Casey, whose parents are from Russia, noted that the food tasted almost exactly like their mother’s home-cooked meals. This makes sense because many of the recipes were developed by the owner’s grandmother. According to Igor, others were created by the former cook who in her sixty-seven years - without a formal education - had absorbed Russian culinary culture in a way that is not done anymore. Igor went on to tell us that duck is another big favorite at Uncle Vanya – it is slow cooked for three hours in its own juices with apples and onions so that it is very tender. At the bar, customers can find Georgian wines and Russian beers.
The culinary authenticity reflects the atmosphere of the restaurant in general. Since 1992, the eatery has retained its unique identity as a sort of “dive art café.” He described it as “a place like Cheers, where everybody knows your name.” In his ten years at Uncle Vanya, he has heard many people say, “I met my wife here! I met my husband here!” He referred to the restaurant as a “kind of social speakeasy kind of place.” The crowd includes many actors, theatergoers, and performers. Any time there is a Russian theater troupe in town, they can be can be found at Uncle Vanya. Even in terms of staff, the restaurant tends to attract people who are involved in the arts. A musician himself, Igor said he feels very lucky and blessed to have been thrown into something "as authentic and real" as Uncle Vanya.
When asked about the piano standing by the bar, Igor quipped, “if someone’s nice, I’ll let them play.” Igor’s hospitable, easygoing manner epitomizes the vibe of Uncle Vanya. He explained, “We’re very flexible, if you want to host an open mic night or do piano karaoke, just talk to the management. They even have modern Russian poetry readings and nights for Americans who are Russian literature lovers. Igor then added, "We’re very open to ideas - we are not just a cafe, but a cultural center."
The decorations and design further contribute to the genuine Russian spirit of the restaurant. There is Soviet art hanging that was given to Marina Troshina - the owner and former Russian actress - as a gift, including many Chekhov decorations. The walls are adorned with original photos from the first stage production of Uncle Vanya as well as posters from the classic Soviet film production directed by Stanislavsky, which Marina purchased at an auction. In an unexpected twist, a holiday card and letter from George W. Bush can be found on one of the walls. In the spirit of supporting art and creativity, Uncle Vanya sometimes hosts exhibitions, where they take the Chekhov pieces off of the wall and mount work from other artists.
When asked what distinguishes Uncle Vanya from other Russian eateries, Igor concluded “that New York conversation you can make here. This city is so dense, you're forced to talk to people - that conversation that can only exist here and nowhere else. Proudly, for better or for worse, we take our part in that culture. There are many places you can go but there's none that are as real.”
