This twenty-three story building was constructed in 1905 under the name of Hotel Gotham and bankrupted three years thereafter. Blame has been given to its close proximity to the Fifth Avenue Presbyterian Church who obstructed the sale of liquor. Fortunately for the Peninsula New York, as it was renamed upon reopening in 1988, the laws were subsequently reinterpreted. Drinks flow freely in the Peninsula's Bar at Clement and its rooftop bar Salon de Ning.
During lunch hours, the restaurant Clement draws throngs of midtown professionals in addition to hotel guests. Its sleek gray and brown decor, enhanced by clusters of diversely shaped wall mirrors and vast windows overlooking Fifth Avenue, conveys an airy, polished feel. It is confidently understated. The Peninsula lobby, on the other hand, takes a much more sensational approach. The entering visitor faces a broad carpeted staircase that ascends with stately symmetry at center before splitting into left and right branches. On the day I walked in, the stairs were flanked with two magnificent, exceptionally tall arrangements of flowers. Marble walls adorned by Corinthian pilasters as well as a glittering chandelier overhead lend this lobby the feel of a grand ballroom.
With grandiose entrances spanning the block between 56th and 57th Streets, Thompson Central Park (formerly known as Le Parker Meridien) has much to be seduced by when stepping inside their doors. After having had a stupendous breakfast at Norma's inside the hotel, Marisa Zafran, the director of public relations & marketing, took us on a grand tour, sharing some of the fascinating history along the way. Coincidentally, while chatting about Jack Parker, who built the hotel in 1981, and has since passed away, we crossed paths with his elegant ninety-three year old wife, as she stepped out of the elevator. Apparently, she now resides on the top floor while her sons run the hotel. When entering the elevators, ourselves, we immediately glanced upward to stare at the constantly looping classic films being shown. On any given ride, guests are treated to Charlie Chaplin films, Laurel & Hardy, the Three Stooges as well as old-time favorite cartoons. Marisa explained that the aim is to eliminate the awkward elevator silence and make it so that people feel completely at home at every turn in the hotel. On the top floor, there is a beautiful and inviting lap pool surrounded by glass windows, and stepping outside onto the terrace we had 360 degrees of breathtaking views of New York, including overlooking Central Park in its entirety. Back down in the lobby, we bypassed the line that was wrapping around the space, despite the early hour, to get into Burger Joint. This tiny, hidden restaurant is considered by many to be the best place for hamburgers in the city. I also fully appreciated the exquisite burgundy-draped Knave where people were quietly sitting over a cup of coffee. Later in the day, the bar opens and guests are invited in for a drink and some elegant "nibbles. "
New York has its own version of the palace of Versailles and it is called the Baccarat Hotel. If anything in the city can be called “exquisite, ” it is this luxury destination on 53rd Street. The first time I entered the intriguing vestibule, I was greeted by a charming gentleman who immediately had me turn my head towards the “vertical chandelier. ” He proudly told me that it was made up of 2016 Baccarat crystal glasses stacked on one another, lit up in ever-changing patterns. Lined with mirrors, this small hall seemed to extend infinitely in either direction, but the magnificent chandeliers above my head echoed upwards into eternity. And then the doorman recommended taking the elevator one flight up to see the lobby. This is where the real sensation presented itself. As the elevator doors opened, I found myself in one of a series of salons lined with crystals, glass, and statuettes. I was breathless, feeling more like I was in a museum with artfully placed display cases filled with shimmering antiques on loan from the French government. The windows themselves, which are also visible from the street, resemble the ribbed exterior of a crystal decanter. This comparison is probably no mistake: the “Baccarat” of Baccarat hotel is indeed the same Baccarat of the world-renowned crystal company. Under new management, the brand has been expanded to include luxury hotels. Though New York is their first, there are already plans to open locations in Morocco and Dubai. As I continued to explore the veritable palace, I found a smaller room with a ceiling that seemed to be covered in cracked glass. It offered an extra level of privacy and sophistication. Back in the main room, a long table stood covered in breathtaking globes made of roses and a fountain of wine bottles surrounded by multicolor flutes. Guests sat in chairs lined with fur, drinking out of crystal glasses. Continuing down the hall, there was a pristine bar room with blindingly white chairs and an outdoor balcony with elegant monochromatic seating. Despite the elegance and grandeur of the Baccarat, there is not one drop of pretension. Every staff member I met was extremely friendly, and the sentiment was one of whimsy rather than austerity. An alcove demonstrated this playful character with shelves holding pure white books each marked with a different year. Every one was blank, except for page numbers. I discovered that their purpose is so that guests can write secret messages to future visitors. All the writer needs to do is give the recipient the year and the page number. The hotel hopes to see many wedding proposals made this way. On the last shelf there is one red book, marked with “2015, ” the year the hotel was opened. One red item is a Baccarat trademark: Before exiting, I entertained myself by gliding through the rooms identifying the red jewel in each of the glittering chandeliers. It did not take me long to find an excuse to return to this sophisticated fairyland with my family. I chose my daughter's birthday to dazzle them. Only this time, we sat at the sixty-foot bar, ordered cocktails and champagne and a favorite, gougeres - scrumptious cheese filled puffs. After this, we headed downstairs to dine at the splendid Chevalier Restaurant.
At the heart of midtown, St. Regis New York asserts itself with a resplendent flourish. This hotel's stately facade and gleaming lobby are trumpeters of a legacy that began in 1904 with the inspiration of Colonel John Jacob Astor I - a man whose place in the elite high society of Gilded Age America has not been forgotten. Simply by stepping inside, St. Regis immediately declares itself a veritable symbol of luxury, elegance and historic status. Those who seek the royal treatment will find a haven in the 229-room hotel, which upholds exceptional service as a foremost column of its prestige. Its signature Butler Service promises constant personalized attention; butlers pack and unpack luggage, perform wake-up calls, press clothes, deliver items, and attend to any number of other tailored requests for their customers. Through its more than century-long history, the hotel has hosted celebrities of every era. Marilyn Monroe was one of the most glamorous to visit, while Marlene Dietrich, William Paley, and Salvador Dalí - with his wife and pet ocelot - lived at the hotel for extended periods. But St. Regis New York is not exclusively a nest of the rich and famous. The more common among us in search of an impressive site for weddings and other exceptional occasions may find the coveted taste of specialness in this establishment. Even I had the honor of walking down the aisle in their magnificent ballroom in 1980, when I was a bridesmaid for one of my dearest friends.
The Manhattan Sideways team is always excited when they discover a shop that specializes in chocolate. On this particular day, we were also delighted to spend some time chatting with owner, Kamila Myzel. We learned that this heavenly little store has resided on 55th for over two decades, and has an old-fashioned candy shop charm to it. Kamila makes every effort to be sure that anyone who steps inside her door feels welcome, and she went on to say that she uses her grandma's recipes for the many different sweets she sells. She bakes all the cookies herself, right on the premises, with her signature being the "Ultimate Cookie, " a chocolate chip cookie that is then dipped in chocolate. Like many of the store's confectionary delights, Kamila is from Europe; she moved from Poland in 1981, and worked in a few other shops with sweet treats before opening this one. Licorice is a specialty at Myzel's, and Kamila explained to us that she carries over 130 different types of licorice made from licorice root that their loyal customers adore. On one of my visits, Myzel's was decked out for Halloween, with candied skulls, pumpkins, and a number of other appropriate decorations squeezed into every nook and cranny. Apparently, Kamila decorates extensively for each major holiday, but she said her personal favorite is Thanksgiving, as it has the "most sincere meaning. " Myzel's even makes chocolate turkeys for the occasion! Until recently, Kamila had a partner with whom she decorated, baked, and ran the store: her mother, Lucy. The mother/daughter team worked together in the sweet shop until the summer of 2015, when Lucy sadly passed away. We had the pleasure of meeting Lucy and seeing the love and devotion that the two women had both for the store and each other. What we derived from our conversations with Kamila was the joy the store brought to her and her mom over the years. Together they have put so much thought and love into Myzel’s Chocolate, and it is clear that her mother lives on in the warmth, color, and happiness that the store evokes. “It’s what’s inside that matters, ” Kamila insisted as she spoke about how much she loves connecting with people through sharing candies and sweet treats with them.
Named after a gangster-turned-reformist, a Robin Hood-like figure who redistributed wealth from the rich to the poor, Tanner Smith’s Bar espouses the message that even those most seemingly set in their ways, as the old-school Irish, can reform. And Tanner Smith’s is certainly far from the stereotypical old-school Irish bars that saturate the city streets. The upper floor of Tanner Smith’s is light and laid back, serving mostly craft beers. There is a mix of wooden structures, shiny surfaces, and weathered brick walls. Downstairs, Winona bar, named after a former nightclub under the same ownership, is an entirely different venue with a separate sound system and dimmer lighting. A mix of whim and history, the accents throughout the bar play on an Alice-and-Wonderland-meets-prohibition aesthetic with cute teacups, an intriguing gin bathtub structure, old New York maps, mounted farm animal heads, and alcoholic paraphernalia like whiskey barrels protruding from the wall. The drinks, too, are spectacular, from classic mixes to standard beer brands to unique specialty drinks, and everything in-between. Guests can order them any way they want to without pretension - a Bud Light at the cocktail bar goes unquestioned. And the food menu, featuring a craze-inducing battered-and-fried eggplant chip with a honey drizzle, is more than sufficient on its own. Any eggplant-averted soul will discover a newfound appreciation for the underrated veggie in these crispy bites. But it is not the decorations, inventive drinks, nor impressive layout of this grand Midtown West speakeasy that make Tanner Smith’s a happening spot. While all of these factors, primed and cohesive, greatly compliment the magnificence of the bar, its finest attribute are the dynamic people who work here, committed to making each night a special one. The bar consultant to Tanner Smith’s, Kevin, started out collecting glasses for a nightclub in Ireland at the ripe age of thirteen, and has never left the bar scene. He ventured to America to promote a whiskey brand, Glendalough, which has since taken off. Kevin had also been to every New York City bar we threw at him, so when he told us why this spot stood out, we listened. “We are an entertainment-based bar, ” he explained, “I serve booze - that is literally living the dream. I give people a fun night. ” Sitting bar side on a Thursday afternoon-turned-evening as the space gradually filled up, these words rang more and more true for the fellow Manhattan Sideways members and me. This bar is not about being high-end, but about fun, about “lighting things on fire. ” Literally. Watching Kevin smoke a barrel-aged stevedore cocktail by using a “smoking gun” filled with bourbon-soaked oak chips was a mesmerizing sight. The effect took out some of the drink’s sweetness, and the longer the smoking goes on, the bitterer the drink becomes. The key lime pie martini I tried - citrus vodka mixed with lemon syrup, lemon preserve, and passion fruit, and topped with a smoked meringue - was superb, but the contagious vibes Kevin and the rest of the playful staff gave off made it memorable. “If you want a great drink, you can have a great drink, ” Kevin shared with me, “but, in addition to the alcoholic beverages, this is a place where all the employees are always happy. ”There is no doubt that Tanner Smith's is helping to redefine the city’s standards of bar service, and, therefore, no small wonder that they already have regulars after only being open for a few short months.
Engaging in conversation with Barbara Gerber-Krasner, the president of Or Olam, I learned that they have not always been on 55th Street. The synagogue, founded in 1906, started out in a storefront on Second Avenue. The congregation, known then as B'nei Leive, came to its current site in 1916. The building dates from the 1870s, and was originally a Baptist church. Barbara explained that, though the ceiling is now "acoustical, " if one were to remove it they would see "the normal structure of a church ceiling. " Originally an Orthodox congregation, in 1966 it became Conservative, followed by the hiring of long time Rabbi Reuven Siegel, who served for over forty years. Upon his arrival, he brought the stain glass windows - representing the twelve tribes of Israel and other Jewish symbols - from the Bronx synagogue where he had been. The congregation remains Conservative and was renamed to Or Olam (Everlasting Light) in 2012. Today, the synagogue's focus is on their older congregants, "empty-nesters" in their 50s or 60s, and suburban transplants. "They want to be able to listen to an adult sermon, " Barbara explained. Though Rabbi Ephraim Pelcovits leads weekly study classes on Torah and Jewish law where "everyone is welcome to attend, " Or Olam does not offer a children's education program. Instead, they encourage families to enroll in the courses offered through the 92nd Street Y. Generally speaking, Barbara characterized Or Olam as "a very open congregation. " A number of members are married to non-Jewish spouses who attend services with them, and Or Olam is home to an active LGBT community. Barbara told me, in no uncertain terms, that at Or Olam, "we don't have cliques. " New members are welcomed with open arms, and are often given aliyot - the opportunity to read from a Torah scroll in front of the congregation - their first time in the synagogue. Or Olam also offers financial assistance to younger congregants through a program called The Legacy Campaign, another way in which they hope to not have to turn anyone away. "So far we've been managing, " Barbara said. "We hope we can continue. "
While walking along 55th Street, a bright pink and white awning caught my attention. The entrance beneath the canopy was marked with a sign that said “A La Mode” with the 'A's and 'O' stacked like ice cream scoops. Inside was a cute handmade ice cream shop that could be the setting of an Eloise story. Catering to those with nut and dairy allergies, A La Mode is also a quaint, yet spacious boutique that sells children’s clothes, shoes, and toys. Additionally, the ice cream store hosts storytelling and seasonal arts and crafts events throughout the year. “We just always loved the space and so we decided to finally buy it and make A La Mode! ” said Sandy Roth, the California children’s clothing designer who founded A La Mode in 2015. The A La Mode team is also composed of her husband Marc and friend Marie Ann, both of whom are equally devoted to the business and love the work they do. The handmade, nut-free ice cream is created by Marc, who trained at the Ice Cream university in Switzerland. The Manhattan Sideways Team was given a chance to sample a few of his innovative flavors, including bubble gum and vanilla pretzel crunch. There are also always three dairy-free flavors available: chocolate, vanilla, and a rotating third flavor. A la Mode has various ice cream sizes, including a little three-inch scoop for $1. 50 that is perfect for toddlers. “It’s great to experiment with the flavors. When seasons come around we try to change it up, ” Marc told me, adding, “Right now Salted Caramel is one of our big sellers. ” A La Mode also distributes its ice cream to local ice cream stores and supermarkets. The family friendly location and the nearby schools have given A La Mode a lot of successful business, to the point where no advertisement was needed. Their events during after-school hours include music events in collaboration with ABC Do-Re-Me!, a program that provides music classes that kids and parents can both enjoy. Sandy has become a recognizable neighborhood face, to the point where young children see her on the street and say, "That's the ice cream girl! " “We have a lot of after-school rush, and its great because they can also see that we also do events and not just ice cream, ” she pointed out. She hopes that A La Mode will eventually expand, maybe even to California, where she still spends time working. “I will be living in Texas soon, ” says Marie Ann, “But I will be still involved. Maybe we can open a location there too! ” Their future plans look bright and cheery, just like their store.