When I asked Alberto Tartari about the name of his new restaurant, he explained that in Italian, vicoletto means “alleyway” or “side street.” What a perfect name for this beautiful, grey-tiled restaurant tucked into the bottom floor of West 17th Street, complete with a cozy back courtyard.
Alberto is the owner of two other New York restaurants, Il Melograno and Il Baretto, but in spite of his busy schedule, he took the time to sit down with me at one of Al Vicoletto’s outdoor tables. “I went to culinary school in Italy,” he told me, “and then I traveled the world.” He worked in London, Paris, Switzerland, and even on The Love Boat before returning to Italy, where he opened his first restaurant. In the early 2000s, he moved to New York City to open Il Melograno, on 51st Street.
At first, I thought that Al Vicoletto was a traditional Italian restaurant, but Alberto told me that he wants to move away from the Italian custom of multiple courses. “People don’t really eat that way anymore, so I’m trying to serve food like tapas or starters.” Customers at Al Vicoletto are encouraged to order a few small plates, or Alberto’s special focaccia romana, baked pizza dough topped with tomato, basil, and homemade pesto.
Al Vicoletto, it seems, is an Italian response to the American way of life. “We only serve lean, simple food here,” Alberto said, adding, “Americans don’t have enough variety in their diets, and they eat too much corn syrup.” Though he puts a strong emphasis on high-quality food, he also values affordability - “not too cheap, and not too expensive.” And of course, anyone with a yearning for Italian products will be interested in purchasing the gourmet pasta, olive oil, espresso, hearts of palm, and many other imported goods for sale at Al Vicoletto.
Though the restaurant had only been open a few weeks when I visited during the summer of 2015, Al Vicoletto already had its share of neighborhood regulars. One satisfied customer even beckoned me over to his table to say, “The food here is excellent! You have to come back and try it.”