Hailing from New Orleans, Sideways team member Courtney is always looking for tastes of her hometown in Manhattan. Bo’s Kitchen and Bar Room delivers just that. Their menu mixes classic New Orleans specialties with a level of invention and creativity all its own. Spicy tuna BLT chalupa, cajun pork chop parmesan, and crispy soft shell crab all have a place on the Bo’s menu, but they are served up with such an urban, contemporary twist that they defy the “Cajun” classification.
The building on West 24th street has been home to restaurants for over ninety years. When transforming the space into Bo’s, the team tore down the old sheetrock to uncover a sign painted directly onto the brick saying, “Silence absolutely necessary.” Although unconfirmed, it is entirely likely these instructions were originally directed at the patrons of a speakeasy that once occupied the space. Now, drinks (and jazz) flow freely at the bar, which features a specialty cocktail list from Jeremy Strawn, including Sazeracs, Ramos Gin Fizzes, and a full martini menu.
Open doors and a comfy green couch kindly invited us into Bo’s, a family-oriented restaurant featuring spirited takes on New Orleans Classics. The restaurant opened in October of 2013 and was named after Andrew “Bo” Young III, long time friend and partner of owner Steven Kristel and son of social rights activist Andrew Young II. From its name, décor, staff and food, Bo’s permeates a homey-meets-classy vibe.
Nifty outlets and hangers for bags lie just under the bar top, inviting all to make them selves at home, recharge their phones, refuel, and relax. The bar itself is fully stocked, including a top shelf entirely devoted to miniature personal bottles and bitters. Hanging plants, exposed brick, conversational stools and side tables fill the rest of the front space, creating a welcoming environment for guests, who can then choose to make their way to the main dining room or descend to the buzzing basement, known as the “Garden District.”
“This place is full of family-ties,” explained General Manager Nicole Rowland, who helped build the restaurant from the ground up after working at the owner’s seasonal Montauk restaurant, South Edison. On the main dining room walls hang pop art renditions of Bo’s family and Steve’s relatives, created by artist Juli Ferrena, to complement the black and white copies framed in the front. But when Nicole says the word “family,” she is also referencing the staff, its own kind of “adopted family.” Steve puts a lot of time and passion into training his employees. The Garden District, designated for happy hours and lively events, features framed silhouettes of staff members, and a floral ceiling hand-painted by the head chef’s mother.
Nicole brought out some dishes for us to try, while explaining that they make everything they can in-house, including ice cream, pasta and bread. The soft shell crab, perfectly crisp and complemented with grilled corn puree, wheat berries, English peas, bacon, and mustard, practically begged the Sideways team members to demolish it. The fried alligator, though uncommon for New Yorkers, was welcomed as unquestionably as chicken tenders by some of us. Always a favorite of mine, however, were the Shishito peppers, enhanced with sea salt, malt vinegar, and homemade crema.
Bo’s proved to us that hospitality does not have to be sacrificed for good quality eats. Speaking with Nicole and sharing the food in the bar area, we felt very much at home. One of us even exclaimed, “I could just fall asleep in this couch.” As we made our way out, Nicole kindly offered up the leftover munchies to guests seated at the bar, further proving that Bo’s is an open-armed, ever-expanding family.
