“Breaking the hearts of Italian mothers since 2004,” Abboccato is a great example of what happens when you have a creative chef, high quality ingredients, and a family that knows how to run restaurants. The Livanoses have been in the food business since 1985, when John Livanos, a Greek immigrant, opened his first restaurant after working as a dishwasher in Manhattan. Since then the family has run successful eateries in Westchester and New York City, including Oceana and Molyvos.
We felt the warm vibe immediately as we walked through the doors. Earthy brickwork was the theme, and sweeping circular booths and back walls of patchwork marble added sparks of color and texture. Jars of cornichons and olives lined the walls and a curtain behind the bar hid a private dining area, which turns into a quasi-sidewalk café in the summertime when the floor-to-ceiling doors are opened.
Abboccato serves up authentic Italian cuisine, representing regions from Sicily to Lombardy, due, in part, to the fact that one of John's sons married an Italian. Despite the fact that Abboccato is a departure from the traditional Greek dishes served at Oceana and Molyvos, the Italian cuisine prepared by chef David Arias is spectacular and innovative. The handmade “chitarra” pasta that Manhattan Sideways sampled - which achieves its irregular zigzag pattern through a box strung with guitar strings - was folded into layers of pancetta, clams, and gushing cherry tomatoes. As they presented the next dish, the chef expressed the Livanos' pride in their fresh fish. Team members found the Oreganata shrimp dish, which arrived in a little iron pan - one of the “cicchetti,” or “little bites" - to be extremely flavorful and delicately spiced with garlic and breadcrumbs.
The “First Date” sandwich, David explained, was from a whole new list of sandwiches that was recently added to the menu for those customers who want a quick lunch, in true Manhattan style. Served on a simple wooden board, the heirloom tomatoes were glorious and juicy, and were complimented with a fine layer of ricotta and a generous helping of prosciutto on focaccia.