Early one summer afternoon, two interns and I strolled into Circo for a leisurely lunch. The Tuscan restaurant greeted us with a warm display of vibrant colors and energetic design. True to its name, meaning "circus" in Italian, Circo evokes the secluded vivacity of a circus tent. Its red-carpeted floor is splattered with yellow and blue hoop patterns, its chair seats cushioned in multicolored checkers, and its ceiling enlivened by bold tapestries and trapezes. Four clown sculptures prance whimsically atop the open kitchen. And, especially meaningful to me, was the discovery that the decoration of the circus-themed paintings were created by graphic designer of the I Love NY iconic symbol, and founder of New York Magazine Milton Glaser, whom I had the pleasure of interviewing for Manhattan Sideways and who, I learned, is also a dear friend of owner, Sirio Maccioni - a touch that binds this celebration of Italian heritage firmly to its New York City location.
Circo joins various other restaurants beneath the wings of the far-reaching Maccioni family. Though primarily the domain of Mauro Maccioni, it is also supported by his brothers Mario and Marco, his mother Egidiana, and his father Sirio, who began the family legacy in 1974 with his famed French restaurant Le Cirque. At that time, according to Mauro, the parameters of "fine dining" in New York were generally considered limited to French fare. But by the birth of Circo in 1996, an idea of upscale Italian cuisine had penetrated the dining scene, and the family members set out to create a refined yet lively restaurant with a menu hailing from their home region of Tuscany. Classic items include the Gazpacho, the Margherita pizza, and the Trofie al Pesto Genovese, a pesto pasta with string beans, potatoes, and Circo's own brand of extra virgin olive oil. It was the basil pesto of this dish that won Circo's Chef, Alfio Longo, the NY Pesto Championship in 2013. He went on to compete internationally, before graciously conceding defeat to a "small elderly woman from Genoa."
After a delectable meal, we were still able to find a bit of room to sample some intriguing flavors of homemade gelato from the cart set up right outside the restaurant - a perfect end to a cheerful, superb lunch.