Chef Bill Telepan - along with partner Jimmy Nicholas - opened his eponymous restaurant in 2005 after graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, working with many renowned, international chefs, garnering success as an executive chef, and publishing Inspired by Ingredients. Many accolades later, Telepan retains its community ties, sourcing locally and being "neighborhood-centric." In addition, through the nonprofit Wellness in the Schools (WITS), Bill devises and executes nutritional cafeteria menus.
The interior of Telepan consists of an attractive bar, inviting booth-style seating, nook-like areas for intimacy, and a semi-private dining room. An impressive wine cellar draws attention to lesser-known origins, celebrating a different region each month. And the tastefully simple exposed brick, subtle green tints, and wooden accents highlight the seasonally-rotated, close-up photographs of luscious produce by Quentin Bacon.
Most of the ingredients on the menu are sourced from the Union Square Greenmarket and local farmers. According to Director of Marketing and Communications Jacqueline Hensel, "Bill was doing farm-to-table before farm-to-table was a thing." In lieu of fancy names or feigned trendiness are consistent seasonality and fresh flavor for guests to experience. The coveted pea pancakes - that only appear on the menu for a short while - are so eagerly anticipated by frequent diners that they make reservations weeks in advance to be certain that they will not miss the opportunity to savor every bite.
One of the most valued opinions comes from a strong-minded older woman who has been eating at the restaurant for years. If she approves a new dish that Bill has created, it goes straight onto the menu. After all, as Chef Telepan explained, "it is all about the customer." He is cooking for everyone who walks through that door, which included the Sideways team when we sat for lunch one summer afternoon.
We started off with refreshing chilled tomato and red pepper soup, a famed house-smoked brook trout, and a beet salad that highlighted the root vegetable in sweet, sour and savory variations. Unable to see the robiolla neatly baked into my tortellini, I was pleasantly surprised with each cheesy bite. The others enjoyed an elegantly cut grilled hanger steak plated atop a mound of potatoes and spinach, and a playful burger dish, garnished with all the fixings and served alongside a volcano of onion rings and french fries.
Pastry Chef Larissa Raphael's desserts were no less inspired. The moist coconut cake was complemented with smooth whipped cream, the strawberry granita parfait fizzled when introduced to a shot of prosecco, and the peanut butter and chocolate gianduja with peanut brittle ice cream and huckleberry gelee was a triangular love affair of compatible tastes.