In 2013, restaurateur Greg Hunt opened Cafe Tallulah, a spacious neighborhood French bistro named after his first daughter. Located in what was once the iconic Victor's Cafe, the restaurant pays homage to its predecessor by preserving an intriguing exterior mural of oxen and a Cuban field worker.
Having dined at Cafe Tallulah on many occasions, it was especially pleasant for me when I brought members of the Manhattan Sideways team there for lunch one afternoon. While sitting at a corner table surrounded by windows, the natural light trickled in, highlighting the soft green of the chilled cucumber soup that I ordered. The light continued to bounce off the vibrant sour Granny Smith apples, arugula, Roquefort, and candied walnuts in the Frisee Salad, and the creamy bechamel, runny egg, and crisp bacon of the croque madame. The invigorating aroma of the hand cut truffle fries spoke for themselves.
In addition to the cuisine, which event planner and floor manager Ivana described as, "classic French cuisine adjusted to an American palette," Cafe Tallulah boasts a hospitable staff and a charming interior. Black and white photos of past and present celebrities adorn the walls, and old French movies play on the televisions. However, it is the French bistro's "longest bar on the Upper West Side" - seating over thirty guests - of which they are most proud. Backed by glass embellished with a gold-brushed patina and a magnificent changing floral arrangement, the bar serves up signature cocktails from whimsical to fancy. The Serge Gainsbourg, a mix of vodka with lemon juice, mint, cucumbers, and a splash of club soda, appears to be the drink of choice for the many neighborhood regulars.
Downstairs, the lounge has a more intimate space, reserved for private parties and music events. Antique furniture, patterned rugs and a fireplace offer a Parisian setting enlivened by the bar and a billiards table. Enclosed by the stone and brick walls and a low ceiling with a detailed design, it is a perfect combination of comfort and class.