A North Carolina native, Suzanne Latapie moved to New York to make it as a dancer, and was introduced into the restaurant business by waiting tables in the Theater District between auditions. Working her way up in both fields, she became one of the first personal trainers in Manhattan, a maitre d’ in many fine French restaurants, and had a ten-year run as the manager at La Goulue, ultimately realizing a found dream of opening her own bistro, Chat Noir.
Grounded in Southern hospitality and French cooking, Chat Noir is named after a landmark café in Paris that held its own through the 1930s as a prime meeting spot for writers, artists and dancers alike. The essence of its namesake is captured with a collection of framed newspaper advertisements from 1930s France, original paintings by Louis Latapie, and Parisian-inspired, striped fabric walls. The space also incorporates a nice touch of nature with aged white oak floors, dainty floral centerpieces, outdoor seating below a flight of steps, and a large vase with seasonally changed branches.
On her visits to France, Suzanne likes to add to her collection of decor, and also notes tasteful dishes to try out with her competent chef, Mario Hernandez. The constantly evolving menu offers light dishes for everyday enjoyment, garnering steady lady’s lunch and date night crowds. “People want to see what they are eating,” Suzanne explained, “They do not need the heavy sauces.”
I could decipher each ingredient in the multi-colored tuna tartar she brought out to the Sideways team - raw yellowfin tuna complemented by sour apples, ripe avocado, cucumber, salmon roe, wasabi, jicama, a light chili oil drizzle, and a crisp, homemade chip. The seared wild salmon sat over a plate of beluga lentils, carrots, and Brussels sprout leaves, all in a pommery mustard dressing. And the cheese soufflé, sitting pretty on a delicate white doily, was comprised of egg whites, goat cheese, feta, and truffle oil. “But we do have some of the fattening stuff,” Suzanne added. The profiteroles, sweet vanilla ice cream-filled puffed pastries with a hot chocolate glaze, were well worth the calories.
The menu also features a list of specialty drinks, with refreshing and fruity derivations as the most popular picks. The cucumber cooler, lime vodka and muddled pearl cucumber vodka, is a standout, and the lychee martini, a combination of sour, lychee, and raspberry flavored alcohols and juices offers innovative flavors.
Just as impressive as the specialty drinks, the light dishes, and maybe even the profiteroles, was the adaptability of the menu. “I am not ever going to say no,” Suzanne stated, meaning she will reintroduce menu items upon request. “People should come in and get what they want.” Diners should also be sent off with the same friendly smile that greeted them. As I watched a contented group of lunch guests heading out, Suzanne referenced each by name.
When she opened Chat Noir in 2006, Suzanne was told, “They will never come down the stairs.” But they do. They come for the light French fare, the authentic 1930s Paris décor, and soft jazzy background music. They stay for the refreshing Southern hospitality emanating from a woman who once only designed to be a dancer. I am so happy she ventured down this path as well, sharing another side street gem with Manhattan.