When Dovetail first opened in December of 2007, it was half the size it is now. The bar in which I sat, talking to David Gagnon, the General Manager, did not exist and was instead a small, one-bedroom apartment. In the middle of 2015, the restaurant closed to replace its outdated kitchen, and John Fraser, the owner/chef, decided to renovate and expand at the same time, with help from architect Glen Cobin. The result is a quirky, yet chic, cozy space. I was thrilled with the new ambiance.
The food offerings had also shifted slightly since I dined there several years prior. John has tried to get back to his Californian roots by offering a special prix-fixe, meatless menu on Mondays. “It really took off,” David told me. “Monday nights are very busy.” In addition, every other night of the week there are different dining options including the chef tasting and a seven course vegetable tasting menu.
Another small change that David was afraid would not be popular was the bread: Since the day Dovetail opened, guests had been served a white cheddar cheese cornbread at the start of the meal. After the renovation, that changed to a beet sourdough, but David says he has received no complaints. He also explained that Sunday is a special night when the chef can play around and try more family-friendly meals, culminating in Sundaes for dessert. The Sundaes are in keeping with what I learned about John’s character - “He’s a kid,” David shared with a respectful grin. “And he shows his personality through his food.”
When John redecorated Dovetail, he wanted to make it reminiscent of a child’s memories of the beach. Painted driftwood and sand art, made by Seth Williamson of Yan Mun studio, fill the shelves in an otherwise Southwestern/New Mexico-flavored room. “John likes things that don’t look placed,” David said of the seemingly random layout of artistic trinkets. David describes the atmosphere as “mid-century modern, beachy, and organic.” He told me that before the renovation, people were requesting, “Please don’t change it, we love it!” referring to the generous space in between tables and the casually elegant feeling. With that in mind, John made certain to preserve guests’ favorite elements of the restaurant. David assured me that the regulars are even more pleased with the restaurant now. “We make people feel like we’re inviting them into our home," he said, and I absolutely agreed. This new larger space has been made to look and feel like a welcoming living room.
Always my favorite time when visiting a restaurant, David led us downstairs and into the spotless kitchen where we observed the staff prepping for the evening's meal. Down a few more steps, we entered the private dining room with an adjacent wine cellar. When I commented to David about how every piece of glass throughout the restaurant - both upstairs and down - is impeccably clean, he proudly held up a wine glass that was essentially translucent, polished to perfection. The wine list is given as much care as the vessels: David explained that the wine list has a lot of handcrafted wines from New York and California, including selections that are not found in other places in the city. He went on to say that there are a lot of surprises, including a Californian wine that was made using the same methods employed in making Burgundy. “We like playing games with the customers,” he said with a grin.
There is no doubt that David is an extremely valuable member of the Dovetail team. He met John when he was working at Union Square’s Compass and started at Dovetail as a captain before moving up to maître d’ and then General Manager. Today, he plays double duty at the restaurant. He works in the office throughout the day, but then is on the floor at night. He declared, "I’m a performer - I love talking to the guests.” He added that his stress melts away as soon as he gets on the floor and “drops some arancini to a guest.” David stands strongly behind Dovetail and often urges friends and families to visit, especially on the day when vegetables are the leading players: “I’m from Wisconsin, I’m a meat eater, but I always tell people to come on Monday.” His loyalty is unshakeable - In his words, “I believe in this restaurant. I believe in what John is doing.”