“You have to have an open mind when you come to this restaurant,” XYST’s head chef Victor Ruiz told us when we stopped in on a rainy, summer afternoon. XYST opened in 2017 and boasts a fully plant-based menu of Mediterranean-inspired cuisine, and Ruiz’s motto was quickly proven by the vast array of vegan fare that graced our table. He brought out dishes in a rainbow of colors - hazelnut flaxseed toast topped with macadamia ricotta butter, a rich yellow squash and zucchini soup, and a trio of brightly-colored hummus. Desert included cheesecake, chocolate cake, and gelato - all without a trace of dairy, egg, or other animal products.
Ruiz came to the United States at age thirteen, and worked as a delivery boy before becoming the head chef at XYST, an opportunity extended by the restaurant’s creator, Matthew Kenney. Kenney is the face behind a host of plant-based restaurants across the country, including Double Zero Plant-Based Pizza and Plant Food + Wine in the East Village. Aside from the delightful flavor and presentation of the offerings at XYST - which came as little surprise considering Kenney’s former projects - Ruiz’s passion was the most stand-out aspect of Kenney’s Chelsea restaurant.
“I know this place better than my house,” Ruiz said, noting that it is not unusual for him to work 10 am to 1 am, seven days a week. He emphasized that “When you’re a chef, you have to be involved in everything… I like to work hard. [I learn] from myself. Nobody’s here to teach me.”
Ruiz’s devotion to the mission of XYST is exemplified through his transition to a plant-based diet since taking his position at the restaurant, a lifestyle change which highlights a key mission of the restaurant: alerting people that vegan food can be vibrant, exciting, and flavorful. As Ruiz brought out dish after colorful dish, he mentioned his children, ages eight and ten, who also have a vegan diet. “I want them to be better than me,” he said. “That’s why I’m doing this. If I can be somebody, they can be somebody.”
Ruiz mentioned that cooking without animal products can force someone to get extra creative in the kitchen, and anyone who enjoys a meal at XYST would likely agree. The food is so unusually beautiful and flavorful that meat, dairy, and eggs - or the lack thereof - might just be the last thing on customers’ minds. “I have tons of people that come to eat here that are not vegan and they don’t even know we are vegan,” general manager Amalie told us. “You can share, people can learn - and that’s very important. Teaching people.”