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44 West 17th Street
XYST 1 Mediterranean Vegetarian Flatiron

“You have to have an open mind when you come to this restaurant,” XYST’s head chef Victor Ruiz told us when we stopped in on a rainy, summer afternoon. XYST opened in 2017 and boasts a fully plant-based menu of Mediterranean-inspired cuisine, and Ruiz’s motto was quickly proven by the vast array of vegan fare that graced our table. He brought out dishes in a rainbow of colors - hazelnut flaxseed toast topped with macadamia ricotta butter, a rich yellow squash and zucchini soup, and a trio of brightly-colored hummus. Desert included cheesecake, chocolate cake, and gelato - all without a trace of dairy, egg, or other animal products.

Ruiz came to the United States at age thirteen, and worked as a delivery boy before becoming the head chef at XYST, an opportunity extended by the restaurant’s creator, Matthew Kenney. Kenney is the face behind a host of plant-based restaurants across the country, including Double Zero Plant-Based Pizza and Plant Food + Wine in the East Village. Aside from the delightful flavor and presentation of the offerings at XYST - which came as little surprise considering Kenney’s former projects - Ruiz’s passion was the most stand-out aspect of Kenney’s Chelsea restaurant.

“I know this place better than my house,” Ruiz said, noting that it is not unusual for him to work 10 am to 1 am, seven days a week. He emphasized that “When you’re a chef, you have to be involved in everything… I like to work hard. [I learn] from myself. Nobody’s here to teach me.”

Ruiz’s devotion to the mission of XYST is exemplified through his transition to a plant-based diet since taking his position at the restaurant, a lifestyle change which highlights a key mission of the restaurant: alerting people that vegan food can be vibrant, exciting, and flavorful. As Ruiz brought out dish after colorful dish, he mentioned his children, ages eight and ten, who also have a vegan diet. “I want them to be better than me,” he said. “That’s why I’m doing this. If I can be somebody, they can be somebody.”

Ruiz mentioned that cooking without animal products can force someone to get extra creative in the kitchen, and anyone who enjoys a meal at XYST would likely agree. The food is so unusually beautiful and flavorful that meat, dairy, and eggs - or the lack thereof - might just be the last thing on customers’ minds. “I have tons of people that come to eat here that are not vegan and they don’t even know we are vegan,” general manager Amalie told us. “You can share, people can learn - and that’s very important. Teaching people.”

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More Mediterranean nearby

Lost Gem
Merakia 1 Mediterranean Greek undefined


Merakia occupies the space that housed Kat & Theo from 2015-2017 - and while the restaurant maintains the same ownership as before, it also has a different mission. The modern Greek steakhouse prides itself on its meats and classic seafood items, while maintaining a classy, hip atmosphere in its cavernous space on 21st Street. “We built a new team… and a new vision, ” managing partner James Paloumbis shared with the Manhattan Sideways team when he spoke of the switch from Kat & Theo. He then went on to highlight Merakia’s differences from other Greek restaurants. “It’s not white and blue like every other place in New York City. Our menu is not the copy paste of any other place. ” The menu is heavy on steaks and seafood, boasting their signature lamb on the spit ("the only restaurant in the city to do so") while, surprisingly, offering some robust meat-free options as well. “Everything is farm to table, we use fresh ingredients, [and] we make everything from scratch on a daily basis. ” James told us that part of his mission is to bring back the adventure of going out to eat, a phenomenon he has noticed declining over the years. “People don’t like to go out anymore just to eat. You can eat at home, you can eat down the street, you can order your meal online. But to get an experience of nice service, some nice flavors, nice music, nice drinks - it’s worth your while to go out again. ” Husband and wife team behind Kat & Theo - Renee and Andreas Typaldos - seem to have orchestrated a smooth transition from their previous restaurant. As their past executive chef, Paras Shah, believed, "there should be a movie written about the couple's romantic backstory and that he “couldn’t have worked for better folks. ” Andy is originally from Greece, and the restaurant was named after his parents, Katerina and Theodosios. Andy came to New York on a scholarship from Columbia and met Renee, who is from the Bronx. He took her out on a first date “with holes in his shoes and with no winter jacket, ” according to Renee. She added, “The romantic, poetic way people get together. ” Today, they are paying homage to Andy's Greek heritage and according to James, “People have to trust their stomachs and their palates with a restaurant, so that’s what we’re trying to do here. Trust us - our food is fresh, our food is made with care, and we love what we do. ”

More places on 17th Street

Lost Gem
Shareen 1 Bridal Vintage undefined


Today, Shareen Mitchell is a bicoastal business owner, a sought-after entrepreneur with fourteen employees and a celebrity following. But no one would have guessed it eleven years ago, when Shareen was, in her own words, “broke, in debt, and selling at a flea market. ” That flea market booth soon grew into a 7, 000 square foot vintage warehouse in LA, and within a few years, Shareen had expanded to New York City. In spite of her success, Shareen’s location on West 17th Street is one of the best-kept secrets in Manhattan. Hidden away on the second floor of an old walk-up, the only sign of its existence is a red dress hanging from the fire escape, and sometimes—like the day I visited—not even that. Fortunately, a friendly employee from the salon next door pointed me in the right direction, but if I had not been in the know, I would have missed Shareen entirely. This secret location may seem like a bad business decision, but it is actually one of the keys to Shareen’s success. Her stores have always fostered a sense of exclusivity, and Shareen told me that her warehouse, especially in the early days, was not only the hottest vintage store in LA, but also a gathering place for a society of hip young women. “It was a crazy, fun secret, ” she told me. “No one knew where they were getting their vintage. ”Because there are no dressing rooms at Shareen—women change out in the open—both store locations have the same “no boys allowed” policy. But the resemblance between Shareen’s two stores ends there. While the LA warehouse is constantly buzzing with youthful energy, the New York location has a quiet, sophisticated feel that caters to a slightly older crowd. The reason for the difference, Shareen explained, is that by 2009, many of her original customers at the LA warehouse were now young professionals living in New York City. “They told me there was nothing like Shareen in the city, ” she said, “so I decided to test the waters. ” She opened a shop in a train station parking lot on Long Island, above an auto shop. “People like Ivanka Trump would get off the train, ” she told me, laughing, “and walk into this auto shop with their dogs and babies and everything. ” But after a while, the trip to Long Island became exhausting, and Shareen decided to open a location in the city. “It was kind of a secret, ” she said. “I had no money for a sign, so I put the red dress out on the fire escape. ”Though she did not put much effort into the store’s exterior, Shareen transformed the inside. The former apartment is now an elegant retail space, filled with ornate mirrors and old-fashioned couches, and yet it still manages to feel warm and welcoming. One large room is devoted entirely to wedding dresses, while another two rooms are filled with vintage clothing of all kinds, from evening gowns to 1950s prom dresses. When I asked Shareen about the bridal section, she told me that the store is in the process of transitioning. “A lot of my clients are starting to get married, ” she told me, “but they don’t want to look like traditional brides. ” These young women, many of whom get married in unorthodox venues—upstate farms, Brooklyn lofts, and Manhattan rooftops—are looking for unique dresses that will express their personalities. Over the past few years, the demand for these “indie wedding dresses” has grown so much that Shareen predicts that the store may soon be entirely bridal. “A year ago, we were half bridal and half vintage, and now it’s more like seventy-thirty, ” Shareen told me. “We’re double-booked on the weekends with brides. ”The New York location may be transitioning into bridal wear, but Shareen insisted that the store will not abandon its vintage roots. Along with her bridal collection, which is all under $2, 000, many of the wedding dresses for sale in the store are reworked vintage. Shareen added that her collection is designed to flatter all kinds of body types, to celebrate women rather than inhibit them. She always tells her brides, “I want to see you looking beautiful, not you in a beautiful dress. ”