Meet 38th Street

Before discussing anything about Arno with the Manhattan Sideways team in the summer of 2017, the manager, Carlos Pereira, spoke like a true local. He lamented the state of New York’s transportation infrastructure, insurance, taxes, and cleanliness, only to then reveal that he commutes each day from his home in New Jersey. After receiving our education on the state of 38th Street, we learned a bit about this extraordinary man's career. Born in Portugal, where he was a bartender at age sixteen, he traveled to New York in 1989. He scored a position at the legendary Le Cirque  (in its original location) - ”I received the best culinary education in America by owner Sirio Maccioni" - before becoming the manager of Arno in 2007. Carlos had plenty to share with us about Arno, which he did over meticulously prepared dishes, including a rare treat of risotto with shaved truffles. It was like a bowl of diamonds being set down before us. As we savored every single bite, Carlos gave us a lesson on the world of black and white truffles. The story of Arno traces back to Florence, near the Arno River from which the restaurant draws its name. There, the two founders met and discovered a mutual ambition. Managing partners Milan Licul and Branko Turcinovic emigrated to the U. S. as waiters, but soon opened a restaurant called Morano in 1984. Morano was later renamed Delmonico’s Kitchen, and was followed only a year later by Arno. While Delmonico’s Kitchen specializes in meats and steaks, Arno is known for its old-school, classic Italian cuisine. There were many challenges in the years between 1984 and the present that could not be shrugged off by restaurants in the Garment District. Carlos related that this particular swath of New York has seen countless restaurants come and go, and yet the owners held fast to Arno. Even in the 1980s, when the area was bad enough that Arno often had to close by 7pm, the restaurant remained "a true testament to who they were, " Carlos proudly stated. The staff wear the neighborhood as a badge of honor, subtly adorning the restaurant with buttons and thread inset into tables, a wall of colorful fabrics, fashion photos - "This is what keeps us sexy, " according to Carlos - and various other garment motifs. So how has Arno endured the trials of time? Carlos believes it is “because we treat clients like family. ” This approach certainly cultivates a comfortable atmosphere, as Carlos claimed that ninety percent of their dedicated clientele are regular customers. In addition to the lengthy list of fashion designers and celebrities that Carlos recited, he told us that many come into the city for Knicks games and other events at Madison Square Garden, and stop by Arno for a familiar meal of traditional homemade pastas, eggplant rollatini, grilled zucchini, tomato, mozzarella and peppers, veal parmigiana, numerous seafood options, and, of course, the Delmonico classic steak. Carlos even shared that they have over 150 "house accounts, " a rarity in the present day. What struck a particular chord with me was the dessert cart that strolls through the restaurant at every meal, as I have fond memories of this practice from when I dined out as a child. It is filled with some of the best classic desserts prepared by their French pastry chef and, like the restaurant itself, is animated by the spirit of the old country, but seasoned with the flavor of New York.

Having a personal guided tour by sales manager, Jason Sturtevant, made me aware of many details I might otherwise have never learned, as well as making my experience at The Archer a superb one. Since the hotel is located in what was once the thriving, garment district, the interior of the lobby is designed to be reminiscent of the 1940s, with large steel structures stylishly cutting through the room. The entrance features a small bar, Bugatti, named after the brand of restauranteur, David Burke’s beloved car. With a garage-style door that opens to the street in warmer weather, and a bright yellow decor, the atmosphere of the bar is charming and laid back. Viewing several different rooms, Jason explained that each one displays slight variations of beautiful designs and color schemes. Averaging 200 square feet, the rooms, as Jason put it, are “intimate in size, in true New York fashion. ” The use of the space has been done in an elegant fashion with the floor-to-ceiling windows working wonders to open up the rooms. Many have hardwood floors and exposed brick walls, creating a tasteful and stylish atmosphere throughout. While guests will not meet the eponymous Archer, who functions as “the personification of gracious hospitality, ” they are certain to feel his presence during their stay. Each room is made ready for arrival with a personalized note, bottled New York City water, his and her robes and slippers, and a selection of books, including Archer favorites Gift From The Sea and The Little Prince. There is a well-stocked minibar with one side of the fridge allowing for personal storage, and complimentary espresso and grab-and-go coffee are available in the lobby. Encouraging their guests to work out “with New Yorkers, like New Yorkers, ” Archer also offers passes to a nearby gym. Additionally, the Archer is environmentally conscious with sensors and efficient solutions for saving energy implemented throughout the building. The selection of art found in the hotel is remarkable. Curated by art consultant Deborah Davis Goodman, almost every piece on display in the Archer was created by New York artists. This commitment to supporting local artists and businesses is further established in the curated retail section at the front of the hotel where jewelry, trays, sea salt caramels, and pocket squares, all made by New York City artisans, are proudly on display. From the captivating art to the jar of homemade peanut brittle, it is the impressive attention to detail that makes the Archer stand out. The New York City Archer opened at the end of May 2014, and two more hotels are expected to open in Napa, California and Austin, Texas by 2016. Filled with personal touches, the hotel certainly comes across as welcoming, detail-oriented, and cohesively designed. Having gained four diamonds by AAA and in the process of getting its four star rating from TripAdvisor, the Archer seems to have already established itself amongst the favored New York City boutique hotels.

New to 38th Street in 2014, and without much competition surrounding it on the side street, District appears to be off and running. With flat screens in the booths, a mile long list of beers, and an American menu that includes appetizers of lobster sliders, buffalo quail wings and truffled cheese croquettes, people in the area seem to be ecstatic that this tap house has arrived on 38th.

Named after nonviolence, Ahimsa is kosher, vegan, and gluten free. The restaurant, whose first location opened in 2016, fulfils a teenage dream of Frank Shah, who owns Ahimsa along with his wife Maya. Growing up poor in Mumbai, Shah’s family could not even afford a biryani. Now, he serves biryani and more authentic North and South Indian dishes made fresh every day. Delicious Indian street-side dishes from Shah’s childhood like vada pav and bhel puri make Ahimsa unique among other Indian restaurants in the city. Being in New York is an important part of Ahimsa’s mission. Shah hopes to use the restaurant to expand non-Indian New Yorkers’ ideas about what Indian food is and to show non-vegan New Yorkers how many delicious meals can be made without meat or dairy.

Do not be fooled by the curiosities and vintage artifacts that cover the windows and walls of Hecht. Besides repairing industrial sewing machines, this company is in the business of buying and selling plants (the manufacturing kind). The vintage pieces scattered throughout the small space are absolutely not for sale, but rather a part of the owner’s personal collection. As I walked around and examined the curiosities, he insisted that he uses "every single one of them. "The owner bristled when I described the fascinating space as "small" and proceeded to show me that there was much more to Hecht than meets the eye. He opened a door in back, which gave way to a much larger, warehouse-like room, which was similarly jam-packed with vintage artifacts. He immediately walked over to a Howe sewing machine, which he proudly disclosed was the first of its kind in the world. He had just gotten it back from the Smithsonian, he said, showing me the official museum tags. While so much is continuously changing around them, the Hecht family is determined to remain a Garment District institution, having opened their doors between 1910 and 1920. The ambiguous establishment date is not because the owner does not care to remember, but rather because Hecht opened its doors as the building in which it still stands was being constructed. "They built around us as we worked, " the owner explained. They are the very definition of a neighborhood institution; As the owner says, "In the garment industry, we're a legend. "

Established in 1923, the Blatt family has been collecting, designing and manufacturing custom-made pool tables for eighty-eight years. Little did we know that we had stumbled upon such a quality and long-standing institution when we found Blatt Billiards preparing for their grand opening on 38th Street. After seventy-one years at 809 Broadway, the family business found a new home in the early part of 2014. Their new space lets the tables do the talking with its white walls, good lighting and high ceilings. Pool tables can be custom designed with impeccable craftsmanship of intricate carvings and wood inlay and made to order in their factory. In addition, Blatt sells foosball tables, poker tables and many other items for grownup games. We spoke with Jeff, the nephew who is in training to one day run the business. He explained how their tables showcase the rich history of billiards and the game of pool. We saw the detailed artistry of the “four seasons” table, which has four mammoth legs and ornate carvings, as well as the Gatsby-esque tables, which have clean lines and portray that iconic jazz-age elegance. Indeed, maintaining in-house quality seems like a priority. As the company has evolved, they moved their manufacturing operations to New Jersey to better accommodate the needs of modern production. There, they also have a warehouse for storing their collection of antique billiard tables. What impressed me as I engaged in conversation with Jeff and his uncle, Steve, is their ability to find a balance between remembering their roots and thinking about the future. They are both businessmen and craftsmen, seeking modern convenience while also maintaining high quality.

Paul Booth is an extraordinary artist – he does not conventionally display his art in galleries or exhibits. Rather, he has created this event space, gallery, tattoo parlor and architectural triumph. Growing up in New Jersey, Paul taught himself skills in fine arts and sculpting before opening his first tattoo parlor there in 1995. He moved his space into Manhattan and in 2014 settled into his third location on 38th Street. On the ground floor, an eerie yet pensive song hums in the background as visitors can view the exquisite paintings embellishing the walls. Down the winding staircase lined with Paul’s gargoyle-like sculptures resides the tattoo parlor. Red fluorescent bulbs cast a shadow on Paul’s larger pieces – sculptures of hooded figures and skeletons, including a wall of sculpted skulls and bones that Paul has transferred to each of his locations. Chairs face the faux-medieval cathedral wall, where customers from New York to Australia come to get their tattoos by one of Paul’s talented artists. The top floor is used as an event space, with coffins for resting and pieces by Andy Warhol and H. R. Giger for admiring. In the past, Last Rites has held painting sessions – where multiple artists impose their individual style on one canvas – after which the gallery sent all donations to the International Child Art Foundation. They aspire to host a similar event in the future.

Voted the second best burger joint by Zagat in 2015, Black Iron Burger is a combination of rustic décor, chill vibes, and great eats. Ketchup decorates the walls, burgers the plates, and the beer flows from the tap much to the joy of a consistent crowd. This particular location opened in August of 2014 and became popular after serving at the food market, Broadway Bites. I lunched here with a fellow Sideways member on a summer afternoon and the two of us sat up at the bar, well taken care of by Manager Jay and his ever-present smile. Jay started with the company after falling in love with one of their burgers the first time he tried it. “Nobody beats our meat, ” Jay added. The meat-lover I was with enjoyed her classic burger, and I was  very happy with my veggie burger and some herb garlic fries. Before continuing our walk, we had to try out the homemade Oreo shake. Definitely a good choice.

I promised Roz and his good friend, Hedi, that I would keep this short, but I did not promise that I wouldn't make it sweet. Finding these two charming men absorbed in conversation one afternoon was endearing as they eagerly invited me to join in. It did not take me long to get them to share Roz's story with me, and when he hesitated for a moment, Hedi would complete the thought. In a nutshell, Roz arrived in New York in 1978 via Iran. He graduated from Brooklyn Polytechnic with a degree in mechanical engineering. While working for a company on Fifth Avenue, he wandered into a shop during his lunch break and picked up an interesting-looking black button. When inquiring about ordering this, the shop keeper told him that it would take two months to receive the button from overseas. Roz immediately told himself, "I am going to make this. " He went on to say, "It was at this moment I discovered myself and knew that I needed to meet this challenge. " As the story goes, it was this one black button that took him on his journey over the next several decades. The name "Lou Lou" comes from the Persian poet Rumi. According to Roz, Rumi teaches readers how to look in the mirror and love what you see there. Lou Lou is the force that gets in the way of that. Roz explained that the force is not specifically considered evil: it is just an obstacle to be overcome. Roz clearly has great respect for the thirteenth century poet. He lovingly spoke about how Rumi could take a small collection of words and turn them into something extraordinary. "He makes something out of nothing, " Roz declared. I am convinced that that phrase could also be applied to Roz's mastery of his own craft. Roz began with a manufacturing studio on 37th Street where he designed and created buttons that he sold to the trade. In 1994, he decided a better way to showcase his work was by having a retail shop. At Lou Lou, "if you need a button by tomorrow, I will have it for you. " The shop is tiny but filled from floor to ceiling with beautifully crafted buttons of every size and for any occasion. For the past twenty years, Roz has been designing and making unique buttons for top designers, the Metropolitan Opera, Radio City, ballet companies, and almost every Broadway production. Simply browsing through the inventory of buttons makes a visit well worth one's while, however, if Roz (and Hedi) also happen to be there, finding the time to chat with them allows for the perfect experience.

Despite being in the Garment District, we were pleasantly surprised to find Nepenthes. Unlike the surrounding storefronts that cater primarily to the trade and are full of women's dresses, ribbons, trims, and spandex, this hip boutique sells upscale, trendy men's clothing. While browsing through the racks of stunning attire, my eyes were also drawn upward where I discovered fascinating pieces of artwork. Named by GQ Magazine as of the best men's retailers in the country, Nepenthes originated in Japan. Their clothes reimagine traditional silhouettes, (think classic hunting or army gear), but with creative patterns and tremendous attention to detail. According to Abdul, the sales associate, their products are intentionally made to reflect the inaccuracies of old production, bringing the notion of "vintage-style" to a whole new level. Abdul went on to describe their unique style as "a nostalgic look at Americana from Japanese eyes. " Their most iconic item is their fatigue pant, a straight-legged and loose-fitting trouser that is made with a reverse sateen. It is as durable, washable, and wearable as denim, and available in seven or eight different colors. Takuya, the manager, who also joined in our conversation, told us that their location in the Garment District is no coincidence. It is part of the company's strategy for vertical integration, bringing their design, retail and manufacturing divisions into close proximity. In fact, most of their garments are made within a four-block radius.