As fans of Nancy and Tim Cushman’s other acclaimed establishments including O Ya (both in Boston and New York) and The Roof at Park South, we were excited to be included on the Covina friends and family invite list in March of 2016.
When we entered, the sun had set and the evening atmosphere was exceptionally cozy, given the otherwise sleek, contemporary elements of the restaurant. Hardwood floors, ceilings with raw wood beams, an open-air kitchen, upbeat music, and the colorful wall art made for a modern, yet natural feel.
We enjoyed being seated in the cafe area at the back of the restaurant filled with little, bistro-style, white marble tables, each topped with a small lit candle and paired with dark, silver-studded cafe chairs. Lining the brick wall were floating, white wood and wire mesh cabinets filled with vintage kitchenware that contributed to the intimate ambiance. We easily understood the café’s daytime appeal, when the white tile counter is filled with house-made pastries like teacakes, baklava, and bostocks - a slice of brioche covered in jam and almond cream - and people sipping on cups of Counter Culture coffee while working on their computer or people watching.
For dinner, we were served a delicate salmon tartar over black olive puree, the Hungarian Fry Bread (imagine fried dough topped with smoked salmon, capers, dill, and herbs), and a thin-crusted, creamy white pizza topped with fontina and crispy roasted Brussels sprouts. For dessert we selected the Cardamom Brioche Doughnuts which were light little puffs of cardamom cinnamon joy dipped in meyer lemon curd and dusted with coconut-pistachio dukka (finely ground nuts and spices), making for the perfect combination of sweet, tart, soft, and crunchy.
It was certainly an evening to remember. We look forward to future encounters with the café by day, and the bar (with more delicious Cushman creations) by night.