"Everything is an adjective here, but an exciting one," declared Danny Brown when I stepped inside the 550 square foot space of his new bar and restaurant, Charc. Opened in early 2017, Danny quickly went on to explain that after ten years in a far larger spot in Forest Hills, he is now attempting to reinvent what was best about his Michelin star Danny Brown Wine Bar & Kitchen. "People think that less footage is easy, but in, actuality, it is not always so." Danny and his team have found that they have had to make numerous adjustments to accommodate the lack of space. "It is challenging as we confront logistical issues," but Danny went on to say that he loves the charm of his 84th Street location. He is looking forward to evolving as he and his staff become more comfortable - and he is able to determine what works best for the customers in the neighborhood and beyond.
The inspiration behind Charc is a fascinating story, and one that Danny emphasized to me "is all true - nothing is fabricated." (He even has a photo of him with the owner). Back in 1995, Danny's cousin took him to a minuscule bar on a back street in Paris called Bar de L'X. "Maybe there were five tables," he recalled. The chef cooked behind the bar and put out four or so different dishes and Parisians came in, and ate and drank whatever was being served. The food was, obviously, outstanding and sometimes included duck breast, filet mignon, and simply cooked potatoes. Danny returned a few more times over the years, and on his last trip to revisit in 2008, he discovered that it had closed, and no one had any further information about the couple who ran the restaurant.
Fast forward seven years later, after closing his restaurant in Forest Hills, Danny decided it was finally time to pay tribute to his beloved Paris locale, for as he stated, "Imitation is the best form of flattery." He original called his establishment X Bar/Bistro before changing the name to "Charc." The kitchen where Danny prepares his dishes is extremely intimate, yet every spec of it is utilized to the maximum. "We are experimenting and being creative," he said thoughtfully. "I want people to have fun." They are encouraged to come in, have a drink at the bar and some food, or take a seat at one of the small tables. The food will not be too fussy and the menu, the cheese, and the wine selection will change frequently. "This will give people a chance to have a bit of a dining adventure."
The focus for the wine is French varietals. "I am trying to cover as many regions in France as possible," but then Danny expanded by saying that as long as it was grown using a French grape, he was willing to serve it. "I didn't want to exclude anyone." Laughing, he added that soon he would add "vacation" wines. These can be from Italy, Spain or parts of the U.S. "It will be nice to have a departure from the list periodically."
And then there is the cheese. Perhaps they will only have one selection on any given night, but it will be an excellent one served with a fresh baguette - St. Stephen's, Harbisson or another made in either New York or Vermont. These will accompany the featured dessert. When I stopped in, we were treated to the apple tarte tatin. Exquisite!
While standing and chatting with Danny, a woman entered announcing that she lived in the neighborhood and had been jogging by and noticed that the space was open. She had come into say hello and welcome. "My husband and I are very into food, so this looks perfect for us." I have no doubt that she and everyone else in the East 80s will return again and again.