There are an estimated 24,000 restaurants in Manhattan, but Ladislav Kulisek claims that there are very few, if any, owned by a Czech, besides himself. And he has three.
"On my first attempt, I imported a rotisserie chicken trailer from the Czech Republic. This is a popular street food there, and I thought why not New York? It turns out New Yorkers don’t like the mess on their fingers.” The unprofitable chicken venture ended abruptly when someone stole the trailer. As I learned, things would get worse for Ladislav before they got better.
Ladislav grew up in a small town near Brno in the Czech Republic. He chose to travel to the United States in 1999 in order to improve his English and seek out economic opportunities. Despite arriving with a master’s degree in economics, Ladislav entered the restaurant industry at the bottom, as a busboy. “I worked my way up the ladder. I was a waiter at Peter Luger and a bartender at the Boathouse in Central Park. My dream, though, was to run my own restaurant in Manhattan.”
After the chicken trailer, Ladislav set up Club 21, a Czech-Slovak style bar in Astoria, and eventually found a partner willing to put up half the capital to open a restaurant in Manhattan. “I needed someone to help finance the venture and I needed it to be an American to do the paperwork with the city. We agreed that I would oversee everything from the construction to the menu and design, so I was working hard, every day. Then, the night before we opened, I found all the locks had been changed.” His business partner told Ladislav to "get lost." His name was not on the paperwork so he had no standing.
What did you do then, I asked? “I thought maybe I will have to do something, but my lawyer said no, no, leave this to me. I didn’t get any money out of it, but the other guy lost his business, his house, everything.” Justice had been done.
Missteps behind him, Ladislav set out to try again. This time he met with more success. La Cava opened in 2010, Vella Wine Bar in 2012, and Bazár in 2017. Each restaurant has a different chef and a carefully vetted partner. Ladislav attributes his success to having worked his way up in the industry. “If you want to own a restaurant and you do not know every aspect of the business, you will fail.”
He went on to explain, “The restaurant is like a puzzle,” and you have to see how all the different pieces fit. You have to see every single detail. If you are missing one thing, the whole picture will not add up. I think about everything from the feel of the surrounding neighborhood to the look of the menu.” To top it all off, Ladislav personally designs his restaurants. “In kindergarten, the teacher said I should do art school after regular classes. For eight years I did that. I have always had that creative side.”
While speaking with Ladislav, I realized more and more the attention he pays to every detail as well as vigilant management and a willingness to evolve according to trends and customer feedback. When I asked him about his next move, he said he was considering a taco joint in Wynwood, Miami. “I love building something from nothing,” he told me, as he flipped through pictures on his phone of when Bazár was a blown-out lot. Ladislav builds his establishments up brick by brick, a process that he truly enjoys. Still, he looks forward to a time when he might step back. “My goal, my hope is that one day, my restaurants will make me free.”